Beijing, Then & Now

It was exactly 20 years ago, Summer of 1988, when Derek and I, newly married and in our early twenties decided to backpack through China. It was the first year China allowed individual travelers to come to China, and even then it was only in certain parts. Previously you had to travel in an organized group. I can’t believe my parents let me go. We were greener than green, naïve and stupid enough to pack our backpacks, hop on a plane and show up in China. In the Southern part, China had allowed a test economic program. Between that and our ability to speak Cantonese we found it easy to travel there. Then we hopped on a plane from Nanning and flew to Beijing. We were in for a challenging experience. Beijing was grey. Grey skies, grey buildings, grey clothes. It seemed that everyone wore the same guarded, impassive face. Everything was the color of communism, and the color was grey. There were very few cars on the roads, but thousands and thousands of bicycles. We had a difficult time finding a place to stay, “No foreigners allowed” we were told over and over again. They would point us toward the expensive international hotels but they didn’t know we were on a budget. We only had $1500 for 2 months, and that included airfare, food, hotels & transportation. We were also hungry. In the south restaurants were plentiful, but we couldn’t find places to eat in Beijing. We were going through our beef jerky and cheese and crackers that we had brought at a rapid rate. We finally found a restaurant one evening. We went there at 7:10 but were told, “Sorry, we’re closed.” What time are you open tomorrow? 5-7 p.m. We made sure to be there right at 5:00. We were hungry. We entered and saw workers standing around, but no one invited us to have a seat. Finally we walked in and took our own seat. We were the only people in what was a very large restaurant. We found our own menu and hungrily selected what we wanted. No one came out. Derek finally went to the kitchen and asked for someone to come and take our order. “We’ll have a #13 & a #21.” “Sorry, we have none of those” “O.K. how about #7 & #11” “Sorry, none of those either.” We were their first and only customers so we were somewhat surprised. Finally after receiving the same response several times, in exasperation we asked, “What DO you have” “#9”. All right, we’ll take two of those. “Sorry, only have 1”.

Twenty years later, we couldn’t believe Beijing. It is such a cosmopolitan city. Skyscrapers, glitzy buildings and shopping malls. Young people dressed in the latest trends wearing bright colors. So many cars and taxis. Still some bikes, but not like before. People looked alive, optimistic, thriving. We saw the same sites, the Forbidden City, still enormous and impressive. We went to the Temple of Heaven. It’s mind boggling to think what was created hundreds of years ago, with sheer grit, creativity and enormous man power. We were able to see Mao in his glass coffin. When we came 20 years ago, the line to see his body wound all the way through Tianmen square, and we weren’t that desperate to see him. Today we were in and out in 15 minutes. The official party line is “Mao did 70% good and 30% bad.” I don’t think he was quite as popular as he was 20 years ago, but still we saw people leave flowers and get quite emotional passing by him.

We went to the Acrobat show tonight. It was spectacular. Nicole and Alex continue to draw attention and people ask to have their picture taken with them. I think Nicole is both embarrassed and flattered by all the young men staring, gawking, admiring and following her. One poor waiter about dropped the bowl of soup he was carrying as he walked in, looked up and saw her. I’m sure he was humiliated as he was backing up (so as not to take his eyes off of her) and tripped over the waitress. Way to make an impression.

It’s so fun to be here with Alex & Nicole. They’ve been such great and willing travelers. Tonight we went to a fabulous food court with dozens of restaurants. You could choose from hundreds of foods (All from different parts of China), and then they’d cook them right there for you. It was fun and they’ve tried everything we’ve thrown at them. No ugly American syndrome for these kids.

Three days until we get Seth, we’re getting so anxious! It’s only 9:30 but the rest of the family is asleep. I better head to bed myself, but I wanted to make sure there was something for my kids to see and read this morning. We love you and miss you.